RFCJ RECIPE ARCHIVE
Posted by : Schelly Dardashti Cucumber-Yogurt Soup, Persian #2 - dairy
While Mast-e-Khiar (yoghurt-mast with cucumbers-khiar) is very popular with all Persians (indeed, all Middle Eastern peoples) it is not generally a soup, rather a thick, creamy appetizer, which can be served as a light lunch with yummy Persian bread, a wonderful ripe sliced tomato, etc. It could, of course, be served as a cold soup by merely adding cold water to thin it a bit or a few ice cubes, see below. Cream (sweet or sour) is rarely used in Persian Jewish cooking. (these days, everyone counts fat grams). In the old days, milk was not homogenized and the cream rose to top of the bottle (still in the late 70s). Cream could be purchased in tiny little bottles. One kind was very very thick and was called "sar-shir" (top of the milk), and was actually spread on bread for breakfast. But I do not remember any cook adding extra cream, and sour cream was not available commercially. However, with the diaspora into USA and Europe, Israel, etc., I am sure many use it now, but as I note further down, a drained yoghurt doesn't really need any additional cream. For many dairy salads, kashk (liquid or powdered whey) was added, and was sometimes also used in thick vegetarian soups called "ash" and added a tangy flavor. Eggs with yoghurt are a non-Jewish combo, and indeed, in two of my oldest decidely non-Jewish Persian cookbooks (1960s), an egg is an ingredient. Because the majority of Jews in and out of Iran (most still do) adhered strictly to Kashrut (at least at home), this was served as a salad/appetizer in the living room or away from the table (dairy can be eaten before meat). The lunches (and dinners) were/are generally meat-based khoresht, or rice mixed with meat and vegetables, as well as meat-based soups. Serving a cold yoghurt soup at the table before a meat meal would have been unthinkable. Of course, it could be great with a sabzi-polo (rice with about 5 different chopped herbs, bright green) and a hunk of lovely grilled salmon, trout or pan-fried white fish! Yum. For an authentic recipe: 1 long English hothouse (or 3-4 medium Persian) cucumbers. 1/2 cup yellow not dark raisins (optional), sometimes currants/barberries ("zereshk") (optional or as garnish) 1 medium onion, grated, or 1/4 cup chopped scallions 3-4 radishes, grated (optional) (can be garnish, don't leave in overnight, will stain yoghurt pink) 3 cups yogurt (preferably NOT low-fat, but regular) 1/2 cup sour cream (also optional) (not necessary if draining yoghurt) 1 TB chopped fresh mint, more to taste if desired 2 TB chopped fresh dill weed, more to taste if desired 2 cloves garlic, crushed 3 TB chopped walnuts 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp fresh ground pepper (or more to taste) 1/2 tsp chopped fresh mint for garnish Peel and grate cucumber. In serving bowl, combine yoghurt, sour cream (if using), cucmbers, scallions, mint, dill weed, garlic, walnuts and raisins (if using). Mix thoroughly and season with salt and pepper. Garnish with mint. Refrigerate for at least a few hours before serving. For a truly delicious variation, take 2 large coffee filters, and put them in a strainer, put the mix in this, and drain overnight in the refrigerator. The resulting lovely thick, creamy salad is amazing on a hot day, or anytime at all. This is called "mast-e-kise," or "yoghurt in a bag" (to drain). Drain it more and becomes a moist cheese (useful for many other recipes as well). They used to put it into cheesecloth bag and tie it up to drain overnight. Drained yoghurt doesn't need any additional cream (sour or otherwise), it becomes its own delicious thick creamy mix. In some Middle Eastern stores, one can buy containers labeled "maste-e-kise," altho it probably only says it in Farsi. But it is so simple to drain at home--and makes any American yoghurt taste 1,000 times better, why buy it from the store? To make a soup, add a cup of cold water or 2-3 ice cubes. Now, a cold soup is similar but more simple, and also drained in a filter or cheesecloth. It uses 8 cups yoghurt, 2 cups milk, a little cream if you insist (but not necessary, especially if yoghurt is drained), 1/2 cup fresh chopped dill weed. 1 cup grated cucumbers, 4 tsp salt and 1 tsp pepper. Drain yoghurt overnight. In the morning, beat up thickened yoghurt and add other ingredients. Stir and chill until ready to serve. Turkish variation is called Cacik. It adds white vinegar and a little olive oil, to cucumber and yoghurt, dill and mint, and salt. no pepper. Serve very chilled. Schelly > Philip & Karen Selwyn wrote: > > > > This soup is a favorite of Persian Jews. It is a variation of the more > > familiar Bulgarian Tarator soup. > > > > Karen Selwyn > > > > * * * * * *
