Chicken Soup #8, Persian Chickpea: Abgush-e-Gonde - meat
Posted by : Schelly Dardashti
Here is the recipe for Abgush-e-gonde, or chicken soup with chickpea
meatballs:
The Jewish community calls these "gonde" (gond-dee), but the Persians
call it "kufteh-ye ard-nokhodchi," nokhodchi are chickpeas or garbanzo
beans.
In middle eastern stores there are two types of chickpea flour, or
ard-e-nokhodchi. One is raw, one is roasted. For this you want the
roasted kind, much more flavorful.
2 large onions
1 pound lean ground beef, veal (if you are into that) or even chicken
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper (or more, Persians like it peppery)
1 tsp turmeric (color and fragrance)
2 cups chick-pea flour
2 tablespoon vegetable oil or a parve margarine
Grate 1 1/2 onions, mix with ground beef, add salt, pepper, turmeric
chick-pea flour. Work well with your hnds, adding a bit of water here and
there until it is smooth and is not sticky. Shape into small balls, about
the size of an apricot (in our family). Persian women use a unique
flipping motion of one hand and wrist to make a perfectly smooth ball.
This can now be cooked in the chicken soup. Any recipe would be o.k. Mine
is composed of the chicken (only breast for the chicken to be eaten, and
a bunch of wings, for flavor), onion, and still true to my Ashkenazi
tradition, carrots and celery -- not used by Persians, and a handful of
chickpeas and several potatoes cut-up. This is cooked quite well, with
water, of course, and becomes a flavorful, concentrated broth. The
meatballs are added and cooked, takes about 1 hour simmering on stove.
Another method, which I never saw in Jewish homes but learned from
non-Jewish cooks, is to take a few cups of the broth, add about 1/4 cup
lime juice, 2 tsps sugar and 1/2 tsp saffron or turmeric. Saute the
meatballs, then add the broth, juice, sugar and saffron or turmeric. and
simmer the meatballs in this. The use of sugar marks it as not very
Jewish. Persian Jewish food is not particularly sweet, and runs to sweet
and sour, or sour.
Some of the meatballs are served as appetizers, with bread and "sabzi"
(various herbs: mint, tarragon, basil, etc.), while people are sitting
around before dinner, waiting for latecomers, etc.
To serve as a meal, pur the meatballs on a platter, put the chicken in
another platter, serve the broth in a tureen, along with a huge platter
of steamed white rice, or "chelo." One places rice in a large soup dish,
followed by a ladle of broth with a piece of potato and chickpeas, takes
some chicken and a gonde and digs in. Many people sprinkle ground dried
limes, or limoo omani, onto their soup. It is an acquired taste. The
whole dried limes as well as ground are found in middle eastern stores.
Of course, this would only be one dish served at the meal. Generally
there will be two stews and a white rice, or a mixed rice (with
vegetables and small pieces of meat or chicken). The number of dishes
grows exponentially as more people are expected. For about 30-40 people
there would 3 or 4 different stews, several mixed rices (polo) as well
as white (chelo), perhaps a baked fish/turkey/chickens, as well as salad.
Sorry for the long post. Once I start thinking about this stuff, it is
hard to let go.
Schelly Dardashti
dardasht@ix.netcom.com
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