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Cheesecake, Molly Lukens' - dairy

Posted by : David Sternlight

 There are many "secrets" to cheesecake, depending on what
 you're used to. If you're used to the original Lindy's (not the modern
 restaurant of the same name) or Turf cheesecake in NY, the 
 "secrets" are:
 
 1. Never use any cheese but Philadelphia Brand Cream Cheese.
    That's ANY cheese. No cheeses other than cream cheese. No
    cream cheese other than Philly. Especially, no "baker's
    cheese"--an abomination for this recipe. The NY Times Cook
    book used to have the "right" recipe. But the latest
    edition adds extra ingredients. The latest edition of the
    NY Times International Cookbook has the right recipe, except
    they use a graham cracker crust, which isn't quite authentic.
 
 2. No sour cream. None. Zero.
 
 3. Cake crust, not a graham cracker crust.
 
 Molly Lukens' "New York Cookbook" has two recipes that are almost
 right--the Lindy's and the Junior's. What I would do for the
 absolute, true taam is make the crust from the Lindy's recipe
 in Lukens' book, and the filling from the NY Times International
 Cookbook.
 
 Note that I'm of a certain age such that I've eaten both originals,
 at Lindy's and Turf's--both long gone.
 
 Ah--here's the original Lindy's recipe direct from them, from 
 "The World's Best Recipes" by Marvin Small. Since it is copyright
 1955 by Marvin Small (First British edition published in 1961),
 I'm sure it's out of copyright (as well as out of print). The
 book is another of my secret treasures Perhaps the US version 
 can be found in an out of print book store. I bought it in London
 in 1962, so the measurements are British.  That means a pint
 is 20 fl. oz and not 16. The only ingredient for which this 
 matters is 1/8 pint "double cream", which would be about 3 fl
 oz US. Double cream is what we call "heavy cream" in the US.
 Here's the original:
 
 "Makes 1-9 inch cake.
 
 2-1/2 pounds cream cheese.
 14 ounces sugar
 3 tbsp flour
 1-1/2 tsp grated orange rind
 1-1/2 tsp grated lemon rind
 pn  of vanilla bean (inside pulp) or 1/4 tsp. vanilla extract
 5 eggs
 2 egg yolks
 1/8 pint double cream
 
 1. Combine cheese, sugar, flour, grated orange and lemon rind
    and vanilla. Beat in electric mixer at second speed.
 2. Add sugar gradually, then remainder of ingredients in order
    given. Add eggs and egg yolks, one at a time, stirring lightly
    after each addition.
 3. Stir in cream.
 
 Biscuit Mixture:
 6 oz. sifted plain flour
 2 oz. sugar
 1 tsp. grated lemon rind
 1/4 tsp vanilla
 1 egg yolk (or two if dough is crumbly on kneading--DS note)
 2 ounces butter, melted.
 
 1. Combine flour, sugar, lemon rind and vanilla. Make a well 
    in centre and add egg yolk and butter. Work together quickly
    with hands until well blended.
 2. Wrap in waxed paper and chill thoroughly in refrigerator 
    about 1 hour.
 3. Roll out 1/8 inch thick and place over oiled bgottom of a
    9-inch spring form cake tin. Trim off the dough by running
    a rolling pin over sharp edge.
 4. Bake in hot oven (400 F) 20 minutes or until a light gold.
    Cool.
 5. Butter sides of cake form and place over base. Roll remaining 
    dough 1/8-inch thick and cut to fit the sides of the oiled
    band.
 6. Fill form with cheese mixture.
 7. Bake in very hot oven (550 F) 12 to 15 minujtes. Reduce 
    temperature to slow (200 F) and continue baking one hour.
    Cool before cutting.

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