This is the menu which Evelyn Rose offered last year in the Jewish
Chronicle, UK (September 19, 1997). It's interesting to see how what she
considers traditional varies to some degree from the kinds of things we
have been posting and discussing.
She writes: "For Rosh Hashanah this year, I have devised a menu that
features the familiar foods of this festival — melons, grapes, apples,
peaches and chicken — but in a less familiar guise. The whole meal
translates these much-loved traditional foods into a contemporary idiom,
reflecting the way we cook — and eat — these days."
The menu she devised is:
Minted Melon and Grape Cocktail
Golden Lemon Chicken Breasts
Squash and Apple Purée
Bulgur & Vermicelli Pilaff
Vegetable Kugel
Nectarine and Orange Compote
or
Country Peach and Nectarine Tarte
"... Some, such as the chicken, with its wonderful sauce, and the country
peach pie, with its luscious fruit and marzipan filling, add a new flavour
element. Others, such as the squash and apple pureé, and the bulgur and
vermicelli pilaff, pay homage to Sephardi cuisine. All are, without
exception, full of flavour and guaranteed to excite even the most
conservative taste buds.
"The vegetable kugel is immensely satisfying but lighter than the
traditional all-potato version. It is ideal for vegetarian guests.
"You may prefer to serve the nectarine compôte rather than the peach and
nectarine pie if you have chosen a more filling starter, such as chopped
liver. The pie pastry really does need to be rolled paper-thin to achieve
the right effect — the "gathered" pastry rim should look similar to one
made with filo pastry."
I don't think I'd be able to follow it down to the last detail for the
simple reason that I don't believe all of the fresh ingredients are
available to me at this time of the year. Any oranges we might have would
be from storage of last year's crop, for example. I wonder how practical
this menu is for a lot of people in these terms. Note that, except for the
chicken, the recipes are either vegetarian or can be made so. The squash
and apple puree would also be appropriate for Sukkot.
At any rate, I'll provide all of the recipes within two posts. I haven't
tried any of these recipes, yet, but will definitely be making the chicken
at some point; quite possibly for the holiday.
Ruth
------
MINTED MELON AND GRAPE COCKTAIL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 8.
Keeps 1 day under refrigeration.
Just as refreshing when prepared as a dessert.
1 large Galia or Ogen or 2 medium melons
8 oz. (225 g) each black and green seedless grapes
juice of 1 lemon
3 fl oz. (75 ml) orange juice
2-3 level tbsp caster [superfine] sugar
2 teaspoons finely chopped mint leaves
For the garnish: fresh sprigs of mint.
Halve the melon and remove the seeds, then scoop out the flesh with a melon
baller and put in a bowl. The flesh near the skin which cannot be made into
balls should be scooped out and put in a separate bowl.
Mix the orange and lemon juices and the sugar, and heat until the sugar has
dissolved (1 minute on 100% power in the microwave), then pour over the
melon balls. Leave at room temperature for an hour for the juices to flow,
stirring once or twice.
Gently stir in the grapes and the mint and then refrigerate. Just before
serving, divide the melon pulp between 8 stemmed glasses or glass dishes
then add the melon balls, grapes and syrup. Garnish with mint .
GOLDEN LEMON CHICKEN BREASTS
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 6.
Leftovers keep 3 days under refrigeration.
The breasts take on a beautiful golden glaze as they and the lemon halves
bake in the exquisite lemon syrup.
9 oz. (250 g) caster [superfine] sugar
3 large lemons
1/2 teaspoon salt
15 grinds black pepper
6 partly boned chicken breasts, unskinned
fresh parsley to garnish
Place the caster sugar in an 8-inch (20 cm) saucepan with 1 pint (575 ml)
water and slowly dissolve over a low heat. Bring to the boil and bubble for
3 minutes. Pierce the skin of the lemons with a fork or skewer, place in
the sugar syrup, then cover and cook at a slow boil for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven at gas no. 8 (450 F, 230 C).
Remove the lemons, then halve when cool. Bubble the liquid over a medium
heat for about 12 minutes or until reduced by half (approximately 10 fl
oz/275 ml) and a golden caramel colour. To check the colour, take the pan
off the heat, then allow the bubbles to settle.
Season the chicken breasts and place skin-side down in a roasting tin that
is just large enough to hold them in a single layer with the lemon halves.
Pour the sugar syrup over the chicken and lemons.
Place the tin in the oven and cook for 30-35 minutes, turning the breasts
over half way through cooking. Nick a breast to make sure that it is cooked
right through to the centre. The chicken can now be kept warm at gas 1 (275
F, 150 C).
Alternatively, if the chicken is cooked before your guests arrive, take out
of the oven, then return to a moderate oven while you are eating the
starter. Garnish with the parsley before serving.
Note: the inside of the lemon is delicious to eat.
SQUASH AND APPLE PUREE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 6-8.
Keeps 3 days under refrigeration.
Freezes 3 months.
An unusual combination of fruit and vegetable. Either butternut or acorn
squash can be used.
3 lb (1.5 kg) squash
1 rounded Tablespoon margarine
9 oz. (250 g) tin or jar of apple sauce
or 3 generous Tablespoons sweetened stewed apple
1 teaspoon salt
20 grinds black pepper
1 teaspoon mixed sweet spice or cinnamon
Halve the squash, scoop out the seeds and any fibre. Cover with clingfilm
and cook on 100% power for 14 minutes in the microwave, or 45 minutes to 1
hour at gas no 6 (400 F, 200 C) in a normal oven, but covered with foil,
until the flesh is tender when pierced with a pointed knife.
Leave until cool enough to handle, then uncover, scoop out the flesh and
purée in the food processor or mash together with all the remaining
ingredients.
Spoon into a casserole, cover and keep hot in the oven, or reheat later for
3 minutes in the microwave or 20 minutes in a moderate oven.
BULGUR AND VERMICELLI PILAFF
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 6-8.
Keeps 3 days under refrigeration.
Freezes 3 months.
Very simple and satisfying.
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 Tablespoons oil
9 oz. (250 g) bulgur (cracked wheat)
3 oz (75 g) vermicelli (very fine pasta)
22 fl oz. (625 ml) (approx.) hot chicken stock [or vegetarian stock]
1/2 teaspoon salt
15 grinds black pepper
Sauté the onion in the oil until soft and golden.
Add the vermicelli broken into short lengths, then stir around in the onion
for a further 3 minutes.
Add the bulgur, salt and pepper and continue to cook for a further 3 or 4
minutes.
Finally add enough of the hot stock barely to cover the mixture.
Cover and simmer until the stock has almost been absorbed — about 10
minutes. Taste to ensure the bulgur is tender; if not add the remaining
stock, cover and simmer for a further 2-3 minutes.
Take off the heat, cover the pan with a tea towel under the lid, and stand
for 10 minutes. Reheats well, particularly in the microwave.
VEGETABLE KUGEL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 8-10.
Keeps 3 days under refrigeration.
Freeze 3 months.
3 large courgettes (1 lb/450 g.) [pale, tender-skinned zuchinni]
3 large carrots (9-10 oz/250-275 g)
2 baking potatoes (1 lb/450 g)
1 large onion (7-8 oz/200-225 g)
4 eggs, whisked together
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
20 grinds black pepper
5 fl oz. (150 ml) sunflower oil
4 oz. (125 g) matzah meal
2 oz. (50 g) dried breadcrumbs
Select an oven-to-table dish measuring approximately 10 x 8 x 2 inches deep
(25 x 20 x 5 cm) or use an oval gratin dish about 11-12 inches (27.5-30 cm)
long.
Preheat the oven to Gas No. 4 (350 F, 180 C).
Top and tail the courgettes and carrots, peel all the vegetables (except
the courgettes), then grate on the finest disc of the food processor (or
grate by hand) and mix together in a bowl.
In a very large bowl, whisk the eggs and seasonings until fluffy, then stir
in the oil, meal and breadcrumbs followed by the vegetables. Mix very
thoroughly, then pour into the dish and smooth level. Bake for 1 to 1-1/4
hours or until a rich golden brown.
The kugel reheats well either in a moderate oven or in the microwave.
NECTARINE AND ORANGE COMPOTE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 6-8.
This is a very refreshing fruit salad, which makes it also very suitable
for serving after the fast.
Poached nectarines keep 3 days under refrigeration, freeze 3 months, but
add the oranges not more than 2 hours before serving.
Peaches or apricots can be substituted for the nectarines.
6-8 nectarines
3 large navel oranges
For the poaching syrup:
3 rounded Tablespoons apricot conserve
1 teaspoon finely grated orange
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon rind
3 level Tablespoons granulated sugar
8 fl. oz (225 ml) water
3 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons apricot brandy (or any orange liqueur — optional)
For garnish: tiny sprigs of mint.
Put the conserve, rinds, sugar and water into a wide saucepan or lidded
frying pan. Stir over gentle heat until the sugar dissolves.
Put in the nectarines, cover and cook very gently until just tender when
pierced with a sharp knife. Lift off the skin and discard, then arrange the
nectarines in a wide dish about 1/2-1 inch (1.5-2.5 cm) deep.
Mix the lemon juice and liqueur with the apricot syrup, then pour over the
fruit and cover. Refrigerate when cold.
Prepare the oranges by peeling them and removing all the pith, then cut
into segments, discarding the membranes. Leave on a dish covered with
clingfilm. Two hours before serving, arrange the segments, plus any juice,
in between the nectarines. Chill well.
Just before serving, arrange tiny sprigs of fresh mint in between the fruit.
COUNTRY PEACH AND NECTARINE PIE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Serves 6-8.
Best cooked on the day.
Leftovers keep 2 days under refrigeration.
Besides adding a touch of exotic flavour, the marzipan helps to protect the
bottom of the pie from the fruit juices.
4 ripe peaches
4 ripe nectarines
4 oz. (125 g) white marzipan, chilled
1/2 lb (225g) puff pastry
juice of 1 lemon
3 Tablespoons apricot jam
1 egg, beaten
Preheat the oven to Gas No. 7 (425 F/220 C).
Blanch the fruit by plunging it into boiling water for three minutes, then
into a bowl of very cold water for two minutes. The skins will then be easy
to lift off. Carefully cut in half and remove the stones. If the fruit is
difficult to halve, cut away from the stone in thick slices.
Roll out the pastry as thinly as possible, then lay in a round
oven-to-table pie dish 9-10 inches (22.5-25cm) diameter or an oval
gratin-type dish 14 x 9 x11/2inches (35 x 23 x 4 cm). There will be a large
overhang of pastry at the edges. Coarsely grate the marzipan evenly over
the pastry base, then arrange the halved or sliced fruit decoratively on top.
Bunch up the additional pastry around the edge to form a rough "rim" very
slightly overlapping the fruit at the edge. Glaze the pastry with the
beaten egg.
Bake for 30 minutes or until the pastry is a rich golden brown and crisp to
the touch.
Melt the jam, then stir in the lemon juice. With a pastry brush, thickly
glaze both the fruit and the pastry with the jam mixture.
Serve slightly warm (reheats well on the day).
Evelyn Rose -- "Table Talk"
www.jchron.co.uk/jc/jcdat/97/SEPT19/cook_1.htm
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