This recipe appeared in an article reviewing Joyce Goldstein's recent
cookbook, CUCINA EBRAICA: FLAVORS OF THE ITALIAN JEWISH KITCHEN. The
review praised the cookbook (an opinion which I share), but dismissed
Goldstein's menu for Rosh Hashanah. Instead, the food journalist
provided several other recipes including this soup.
According to Goldstein's introduction to this soup recipe, it is named
after Esther, Queen of Persia, and is served at Purim.
Goldstein's version of the soup is both a nod to modern health issues
and the laws of kashruth. The traditional preparation includes bechamel
sauce, but Goldstein uses rice or potato as a thickening agent and
offers a pareve alternative in the ingredient list.
Karen Selwyn
* * * * * * *
Artichoke Soup (Crema de Carciofi Ester)
The artichoke flavor of this soup intensifies as it sits, so it's best
to prepare it a few hours or even a day ahead of time and reheat to
serve.
Juice of 1 lemon
12 artichokes
3 tablespoons butter or olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
3/4 pound boiling potatoes, peeled and diced,
OR 1/2 cup white rice
3 cups vegetable broth plus
additional vegetable broth or milk or heavy whipping cream
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Chopped, peeled, toasted hazelnuts or pine nuts, optional
Chopped flat-leaf parsley or mint, optional
Fill large bowl with water and add lemon juice. Working with 1
artichoke at a time, cut off stem flush with bottom. Trim away all
leaves until you reach pale green heart. Pare away dark green area from
base. Cut artichoke in half lengthwise and scoop out and discard choke
from each half. Then cut each half lengthwise into 1/4-inch thick slices
and drop into lemon water.
Melt butter (or oil) in large saucepan over medium heat. Drain
artichokes and add to pan. Saute until shiny, then add garlic, potatoes
and enough broth to just cover artichokes, about 1 1/2 cups. Cover pan
and simmer over medium heat until artichokes are very tender and almost
falling apart, 25 to 30 minutes.
Remove from heat. Transfer to food processor and puree until smooth.
Return puree to saucepan and add remaining 1 1/2 cups broth. Reheat over
low heat, adding more broth (or milk or cream) to achieve consistency
you prefer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Serve in shallow soup bowls. Garnish with chopped hazelnuts, pine nuts,
parsley or mint.
6 to 8 servings.
Current source: "The Virtues of Patience of Good Taste"
Laurie Ochoa
LA TIMES (on-line edition), 9/9/98
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