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Latkes: Caribbean Boniato - dairy, pareve

Posted by : Ruth Heiges

I browsed through some of the on-line newspapers which publish weekly food
sections and found there is an evidently syndicated article which Joan Nathan
has written for Hanukah. I have to hand it to her: She is indefatigable when it
comes to gathering Jewish recipes and new fusion derivations of them. I would
never have dreamt I'd see a recipe entitled ~Caribbean latke~!

Nathan writes: "Allen Susser, chef-owner of Chef Allen's in North Miami, Fla.,
uses boniato, a Cuban sweet potato, to make a full-flavored and multitextured
Caribbean latke in the same way that many of his Cuban-Jewish customers use
boniato in their potato kugels."

"Because potatoes came from the New World, they are a relatively new creation in
terms of the history of the Jewish people. It wasn't until the 18th century that
potatoes reached Eastern Europe, where they first were blended with schmaltz
(rendered chicken or goose fat).

"Chances are that pancakes during the Maccabean era were fried bread made of
flour, even perhaps bulgur or barley, or were made from the bitter wild greens
and onions often growing along the roadside, with some dried bread pounded into
crumbs.

"In the Middle Ages, the fried pancakes became fried sweets, coming from the
Greek tradition of fried dough or loukomades, dipped in honey, which are still
eaten today."

Ruth

Chef Allen's Caribbean boniato latkes
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1/2 large boniato or yam, peeled, about 3/4 pound (available in Latin American
stores)
1/2 medium Spanish onion 
2 large eggs, lightly beaten 
1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest 
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 
1 teaspoon kosher salt or to taste 
Freshly ground black pepper 
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger 
2 Tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped 
1/8 teaspoon crushed dried hot peppers 
2 teaspoons matzo meal 
Peanut or vegetable oil for frying 
1/2 cup sour cream 
3 to 4 green onions, chopped 

Grate together boniato and onion on large holes of grater into bowl. Stir in
eggs until well blended. Add orange zest, cumin, salt, pepper to taste, ginger,
cilantro, hot peppers and matzo meal and stir to mix.

In large, heavy skillet, heat about 1/2-inch oil over medium to high heat. Drop
heaping tablespoons of boniato mixture into oil. Press batter down in center
with wooden spoon. Do not crowd skillet. Fry pancakes until golden brown on 1
side, about 4 minutes. Turn and brown other side, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper
towels and keep warm.

Mix sour cream and green onions in small glass bowl. Serve with hot latkes.
Makes 8 pancakes.

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