Olives, Black in White Wine - pareve
Posted by : Ruth Heiges
This is from Nira Rousso's "Kitchen Secrets" page in the Ha'aretz Magazine
of July 31, 1998. She took this from a new book in Hebrew about olives;
"Have an Olive: A guide to understanding the most broken and cracked
vegetable of them all, researched and investigated, illustrated and
presented by Yoram Shapira, a veteran olive eater, among other things."
I kid you not. Ostensibly, it loses something in translation.
Of course, olives are a fruit, but who am I to argue.
Rousso presented all of this information in narrative style, but I'll try
to put it in some order.
Black Olives in White Wine
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
2 kilos (4.4 lb) ripe black olives
white wine (not dry); "muscat is just right for this purpose, providing a
sweet balance to the bitterness of the olives"
garlic, six cloves plus two whole bulbs
olive oil
1 teaspoon red, hot, ground paprika
20 grams (2/3 ounce) oregano
3-4 basil leaves
*scant* 1/4 teaspoon agar-agar
(or less than 2 cm (3/4 in.) of a branch containing it)
whole allspice, about 40
You'll need a glass jar which can be closed tightly and which can hold the
entire quantity of olives.
Take ripe black olives and crack each one slightly, by hand. Using a jar
that can hold about two kilos of olives, pour the wine to about the halfway
mark (the middle of the jar). Add garlic to the wine (three cloves for
every kilo of olives) and leave the jar for 12 hours. Then, overturn the
contents so that the upper part, which was above the wine, is now on the
bottom in the wine solution. Again, let stand for 12 hours.
After 24 hours, during which all the olives have managed to soak, add
enough olive oil to cover all the olives.
Take one cup of water and one teaspoon of red, hot, ground paprika. Mix the
paprika into the water and pour the mixture into the jar. Don't use salt,
but add 10 grams of oregano and three or four basil leaves.
At this stage, you add a very important ingredient ... The agar-agar acts
as a preservative that protects the olives and prevents them from rotting,
as would vinegar, only without adding a taste that would disturb the aroma.
Since the agar-agar also functions as a gelatin catalyst, be sure to use no
more than a pinch, or you'll have to extricate the olives with a hammer and
chisel. If you get hold of a small branch of agar-agar, use no more than
two centimeters, and, if you have the powder (which is ocher white), use
less than a quarter of a teaspoon for two kilos of olives.
In addition to the preservative, at this stage you also add more garlic
(two whole bulbs) and allow the concoction to steep for 24 more hours, in a
dry, dark place.
After this, add whole allspice (about 20 for each kilo of olives) and let
stand for 24 hours.
The last stage of the process: After 48 hours, mix the olives and the
liquid and fortify with another dose of oregano (10 grams).
Let stand one more week. Then, taste the olives. They should be ready to eat.
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