RFCJ RECIPE ARCHIVE
Posted by : Ruth Heiges The World of Jewish Cooking
I’ve frequently referred to Gil Marks’ "The World of Jewish Cooking" [Simon & Schuster, 1996, ISBN 0-684-82491] but have never written a review of the book. Not long after its publication, my daughter brought it back from a visit to the US as a gift for me. She had no idea I was interested in acquiring it but had a good sense that it would appeal to me, considering my love of Jewish cuisine. I adore this book! Marks has a remarkable background: He is an historian, a rabbi, a writer, and an authority on Jewish cuisine. Each of these elements comes into play in this book like a perfectly seasoned dish which you know the cook has enjoyed preparing. His writing style and presentation are a study in economy and clarity, with the recipe I am including here being a perfect example. In two facing pages, he conveys a short study about rice [7000 varieties which can be sorted into three categories, with the characteristics of each], the Persian traditions and techniques associated with it ["invented many new ways of preparing their favorite grain"], the Jewish connection, including Talmudic references, plus the recipe and variations! The book is a true world tour of Jewish cooking and cuisine through the ages, highlighting both Ashkenazic and Sephardic traditions and their contexts. Its scholarship is entertaining and edifying, and the recipes are exquisite. I am intentionally providing a recipe for a staple dinner course, rather than something "dazzling." I think it’s a great example of how the recipes Marks provides can lift the mundane to the level of the extraordinary. It’s all very well to serve an elaborate main course, but I find it gratifying to provide culinary surprises in the side dishes as well. Persian Crusty Spicy Rice [Chelou] ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Adapted from "The World of Jewish Cooking," by Gil Marks Preparation Time: Overnight to soak 15 minutes prep time Cooking Time: 1 hour or less Serves 6 to 8 3 cups long-grain rice 8 cups water 2 Tablespoons salt, or to taste 1/4 cup vegetable oil (not olive oil) 1/2 teaspoon white pepper [optional, but I recommend it] 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 clove garlic, crushed 3 Tablespoons chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water 2 medium potatoes or onions, sliced 1/4-inch thick [optional]* 2 Tablespoons additional vegetable oil Rinse the rice in lukewarm water. Place in a large bowl and fill with cold water that covers the rice. Soak overnight or a minimum of two hours. Drain and rinse with cold water. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Add the salt and the rice and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Drain and rinse under cold running water. * Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. * Place the onion or potato slices in the oil and leave alone while they brown. Add more oil if necessary. When very golden, remove to a plate. Add 2 tablespoons of oil, the broth and the spices and stir. Add the rice slowly, creating a mound of rice in the center and leaving space on the sides. Using the handle of a long spoon, poke a hole in the mountain of rice that goes to the pan bottom. Drizzle the remaining oil in the hole and around the rice. Place a kitchen towel or several paper towels over the top of the rice and cover with a lid. Cook over medium heat until you see some steam. Reduce heat to low, and simmer until the rice is tender and the bottom is crisp. It takes between 20 minutes and an hour depending on the amount of liquid that the rice absorbed. A cloud of steam will escape when you lift the lid, so be careful. This will indicate that the rice is ready. To remove the crusty rice easily, fill the sink with about 2 inches of cold water. Place the pot in the water and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Remove the toweling. Spoon the rice onto a platter, placing the crusty part on top. *The onion or potato is to be used only if you don’t want to have a crusty bottom to the rice. Personally, I find the crust to be the major appeal of the recipe, so I can’t imagine one would want to avoid it. I fried onions to garnish. VARIATIONS: --Polo (Rice with Meat or Vegetables): Spread half of the parboiled rice into the pot; spread 2 cups filling – such as cooked lentils, beans, peas, shredded chicken, or meatballs – over the rice, leaving the edges uncovered; and tope with the remaining rice. --Reshteh Polo (Persian Rice with Noodles): Stir 8 ounces cooked thin egg noodles and, if desired, 1/2 cup raisins into the parboiled rice when assembling for the final cooking. MY NOTE: If you wish to make a smaller recipe, do not reduce the seasonings (except for the salt for parboiling the rice). Regardless of the quantity of rice, the full measure of seasonings is needed for forming the crust. I found the process of preparing this dish absolutely fascinating. The purpose of the soaking is to incorporate water into the rice for the final cooking. I was amazed at the amount of moisture in the pot, in spite of the fact that no water is added for the final cooking, so the towel was absolutely necessary for absorbing the steam. Meanwhile, the process of rinsing the rice before and after the parboiling removed the surface starch, causing each grain to come out absolutely separate. Ruth
