Cucina Ebraica
Posted by : Schelly Talalay Dardashti
One of the best cookbooks I have come across recently is "Cucina Ebraica"
by Joyce Goldstein. I have no commercial interest in this book, but I
think it is a must for everyone interested in Jewish ethnic cuisine. Mine
came from amazon.com.
Goldstein presents Jewish Italian recipes from many Italian
communities and from Italian published Kewish cookbooks and anthologies,
including women's organizations.
what I particularly found fascinating was the section on
Verdure/vegetables.
Carote alla Giudia. braised carrots Jewish style, with pine nuts,
raisins, vinegar. Braised peas. Piselli in Tegame, with peas, onions,
pine nuts, white white and parsley. cipolle ripieni, stuffed baked onions
with a meatball center (to italy via Spain and Turkey). And many many
more.
One of my favorites is Zucca Disfatta, melted golden squash, from
Ferrara, and traditionally served to break the fast at Yom Kippur.
Goldstein notes that Jewish term for the yellow-orange squash is called
zucca barucca (barucca related to "baruch," blessed, blessing). Pumpkin
squash brought to Italy by Sephardim from Spain and Portugal.
She offers a great Zucca Gialla in Agrodolce, sweet and sour
sqush from Palermo (mint, garlic, red wine vinegar, sugar, cinnamon). or
how about Peperoni Ripieni, peppers stuffed with a chopped version of
eggplant parmigiana?
Budino di Pollo all'Ebraica, Jewish-style chicken pudding (ground
chicken and porcini mushrooms with sauce of mushrooms or tomato sauce).
Roast chicken with Pollo Arrosto all'Arancia, Limone e Zenzero, (Roast
chicken with orange, lemon and ginger).
Desserts include torta di carote e zenzero (double crusted carrot
and ginger tart, wow!) italian carrot cake and pumpkin cake. almond
pudding, Timballo di Ricotta, ricotta souffle pudding.
lots more. An amazing read, and great recipes and photography.
And, what is most important to me, it seems to be extremely accurate. Her
notes on each recipe are very interesting, as is the introduction and
menus.
Zucca Disfatta
Melted Golden Squash
1 or 2 hard-skinned yellow squashes such as butternut, banana or acorn.
about 3 pounds total
3 TB olive oil or unsalted butter
1 onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/4 cups)
salt and fresh black pepper
3 TB finely minced citron or 2 TB grated lemon zest
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon (optional)
Chopped fresh mint, flat-leaf parsley or rosemary, for garnish
(optional).
Preheat oven to 375. Stick squash with tip of a knife [in several places]
and place in pan in oven. Bake until tender, when pierced, 45-60 minutes,
depending on size. Remove from oven. When cool enough to handle, cut in
half. Scoop out seeds and fibers and discard [Schelly's note: unless you
are saving the seeds to eat] Scoop out flesh and pass througha food mill
over a bowl or mash with potato masher. Makes about 3 cups puree.
Warm oil or butter in saute pan over low heat. Add onion and saute until
very soft and sweet, about 15 minutes. Add squash puree, salt and pepper,
citron or lemon zest and cinnamon. Cook over very low heat. Stir often
until dry, about 10 minutes. Transfer to warm serving dish and sprinkle
with mint, parsley or rosemary.
Schelly's note: if this is really cooked dry, one could use it for a
ravioli filling or similar.
Schelly Talalay Dardashti
dardasht@ix.netcom.com
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