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Stew, Moroccan Sabbath: Dafina - meat

Posted by : Ruth Heiges

Amazing as it may sound, possibly every slow-cooking dish 
made with beans derived from the practice of Orthodox Jews 
who, not being allowed to kindle fires on the sabbath, would 
leave a real low oven going and let their food cook 
overnight. Even the Pilgrims took on this practice prior to 
sailing to the New World. The substitutions they later had 
to make in ingredients resulted in Boston baked beans.

When the Sephardic/Spanish Jews were expelled from Spain by 
the Inquisition in 1492, many made their way across the 
Straits of Gibraltar to northwestern Africa. Adjusting 
ingredients for available products, what we refer to as
cholent and they referred to as _hamin_ became _dafina_ in 
Morocco. The word comes from the Arabic, dafina/adafina, 
meaning "covered." Typical of any Sephardic stew of this 
sort is the inclusion of _huevos haminados_-- eggs which 
have become hardboiled and brown by being included in the 
stew. The gravy permeates the porous eggshell, turning the 
egg brown and imparting an extraordinary flavor.

Dafina - Moroccan Sabbath Stew

6 to 8 servings

----------------------------

8 oz. (about 1-1/4 cups) dried chickpeas
3 Tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium yellow onions, chopped (about 1 cup)
4 whole cloves garlic
1 pound beef or veal marrow bones
3 pounds beef brisket, short ribs, or chuck roast, 
  cut into 4 pieces
12 to 16 medium potatoes (4 to 5 pounds), peeled, 
  OR 1/2 cup bulgur
5 to 6 pitted dates OR 3 Tablespoons honey
1 Tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon  ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric 
  OR 6 saffron threads, crumbled
About 2 teaspoons salt
Ground black pepper to taste
1 recipe kouclas (dumpling, 2 options below)
6 to 8 large eggs, in shell

1. Soak the chickpeas in water overnight. Drain.

2. Heat the oil in a 6- to 8-quart pot over medium eat. Add 
the onions and saute' until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 
minutes.

3. Add, without mixing, the chickpeas, garlic, bones, meat, 
potatoes or bulgur, dates or honey, paprika, cumin, cinnamon, 
turmeric or saffron, salt, and pepper. Place the _kouclas_ 
in the center of the _dafina_ and arrange the eggs around it. 
Add enough water to cover.

4. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, 
and simmer, occasionally skimming the foam, for 1 hour.

5. Tightly cover the pot, place on a _blech_ (a thin sheet 
of metal placed over the stove top) over low heat or in a 
225-degree oven, and cook overnight. Or transfer to a slow 
crock-type cooker set on low to cook overnight.

6. _Dafina_ is traditionally separated into different dishes 
before serving: the chickpeas and cooking liquid in one bowl, 
the eggs in a second, the potatoes in a third, the meat in a 
fourth, and the dumpling in a fifth.

Kouclas bi Khobz - Moroccan Bread Dumpling

-----------------------

1 cup bread crumbs
1 large yellow onion, chopped (about 3/4 cup)
3 large eggs
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
Salt to taste

Combine all the ingredients. Wrap loosely in a piece of 
cheesecloth or aluminum foil and tie securely.

Kouclas bi Ruz - Moroccan Rice Dumpling

----------------------

1 cup rice
4 ounces ground lamb or beef
1/2 cup ground walnuts
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground mace
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
About 1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper to taste

Combine all of the ingredients. Wrap loosely in a piece of 
cheesecloth and tie securely.

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