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Brisket Zweigenthal - meat

Posted by : Karen Selwyn

The Zweigenthal in the title is Gail Zweigenthal, the
editor-in-chief of GOURMET magazine.  The story behind this
recipe has resonance for me -- and I assume many others -- 
whose mothers and mothers-in-law have had their cooking 
skills diminished with time or have had family recipes lost 
through death.

At some point after her mother's death, Zweigenthal realized
she did not have a copy of her mother's brisket recipe.  
She tried re-creating the recipe as best she could, but she
never had complete success.  She put out a request for 
brisket recipes to the employees of GOURMET in the
hopes that a reasonable facsimile of her mother's recipe 
would turn up.  She explained that while she got lots of 
interesting recipes (none of which she has published 
incidentally!), none were what she was looking for.  She 
then turned to a first cousin, the daughter of her mother's
deceased sister.  Apparently, Zweigenthal's mother had given
the brisket recipe to her sister, who in turn passed it on 
to her daughter, Zweigenthal's cousin.  So the recipe was 
found.

Karen Selwyn

*   *   *   *   *   *

5-6 lb first-cut brisket
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2 inch dice 
  (approximately 5 cups)
2-3 large garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon pepper
3 cups water or beef broth

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In a Dutch oven, heat 1 tablespon oil in oven for 10 
minutes.  Pat brisket dry and season with salt and pepper.  

Roast brisket in pan, uncovered, 30 minutes.  (If brisket 
completes 30 minutes cooking time before the onion mixture 
explained below is complete, remove brisket from the oven 
and allow it to rest.)

Reduce oven heat to 350 degrees.

While brisket is in the initial cooking phase, cook onions 
in remaining 2 tablespoons oil over moderate heat in skillet. 
Stir until onions are softened and beginning to turn golden.
Reduce heat to low-moderate and continue cooking onions 
until deep brown, stirring occasionally.  (If necessary, 
reduce heat to keep onions from burning.)  Stir in garlic,
paprika, salt and pepper and cook 1 minute.  Stir in 3 cups 
water/beef broth and bring to a boil.

Spoon onion mixture over brisket and bake, covered with lid
1/2 inch ajar for 3 1/2 hours or until brisket is tender.  

Check pan every hour and, if necessary, add more liquid.  

Remove brisket and let cool in onion mixture for 1 hour.

Remove brisket from pan, scraping onion mixture off meat and
back into pan.  Chill, wrapped in foil, overnight.  Spoon 
onion mixture into a 1 quart measuring cup and chill, 
covered, overnight.

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Discard fat from onion mixture.  If necessary, add enough 
liquid to measure 3 cups total.  In a blender, process the 
gravy until smooth.  

Heat onion gravy in a saucepan.

Slice the cooled brisket against the grain.  Lay brisket 
slices in a 13" X 9" baking dish.  Pour heated onion gravy 
over the meat slices, lifting up each slice as you pour to 
make sure some gravy comes in contact fully with each piece 
of meat.

Heat brisket in oven for 30 minutes.

Notes: Consider pureeing only half the onions -- leaving the
remaining onions intact -- to form the sauce.  I found that
the pureed onions made the sauce too uniformly sweet, 
canceling out some of the contrast between the sweetness of
the caramelized onions and the spicyness of the pepper which 
I tasted while the sauce was cooking.  At any rate, give the
sauce a final seasoning of pepper.

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