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The Vegetarian Table: Japan
by Victoria Wise
Photography: Deborah Jones
Chronicle Books San Francisco, 1998
ISBN: 0-8118-1565
Reviewed by Debra Fritz
I am not a vegetarian and I have no experience cooking Japanese food, beyond miso soup and a few failed attempts at making sushi rolls. I have, however, been to many Japanese restaurants, and thoroughly enjoy the cuisine. From those experiences, I have some idea of how things should taste.
This cookbook is packed with hundreds of recipes, beautiful photographs, and information to help even a novice learn the basics of Japanese cooking. From the very beginning, with a simple explanation of "Basic Ingredients" and "Seasonings for the Japanese Table," readers are given the history and usages of many basic items, such as soy sauce, miso, various forms of soybeans and the cooking oils of Japan.
I had no idea the original Shichimi (Seven-Spice Powder) called for the addition of hemp seeds or white poppy seeds. Since hemp seeds are no longer available and white poppy seeds may be hard to find, the author provides her own recipe for this basic seasoning, albeit there are only 6 spices given.
The book is divided into six chapters, each covering a specific area: Appetizers & Condiments, Soups, Rice, Noodles, Vegetables and Sweets. Since I had made miso soup before, I decided to try the recipe given in this book to see how it differed from others.
The recipe began with an explanation of the difference between red and white miso, something I found useful. I'm a beginner at Japanese cooking, so I found all of the author's explanations useful. One of the ingredients listed was dashi. Never having heard of that, I appreciated the referral to page 37 where I found a recipe for dashi. The author included variations and an explanation of this basic stock, which is widely used in Japanese cooking, and called for in a number of recipes in this particular book. I completed the basic miso soup recipe, played with some of the alternative variations and found the soup flavorful and very easy.
Next, I tried some noodles. This section of the book began with a good, but simple, explanation of various noodles. Udon, soba, somen, et al, were discussed, and instructions for properly preparing each type was given. I decided to try the recipe for Summer Noodles. This dish, traditionally served cold, was yet another example of easy cooking. Using dashi as a base, the only things I needed were wasabi powder, soy sauce, fresh ginger, scallions, the soba or somen noodles, and the accompanying picture to show me how it should be served.
All in all, I tried seven recipes from this book, some easy, others a bit more complicated. The Vegetarian Sukiyaki was very good. So were the Shitake and Enoki Mushroom Clear Soup in Ginger Broth and the Sesame-Crusted Rice Patties. The Sesame Dressing used with green beans is a basic mixture of sesame seeds, sake, soy sauce, sugar and dashi that can be used with almost any vegetable to create a nice side dish.
The book also has a recipe for Grilled Tofu and Vegetable Skewers with a Dengaku Sauce. Although I am not a tofu lover, I did like this, and the simple sauce made from msio, mirin, sugar, egg yolk and Dashi may also be used with a variety of other dishes.
I shared these dishes with two Japanese friends, both of whom were raised with traditional Japanese cooking and continue to enjoy this in their home. They both agreed the finished products were tasty and very authentic.
Of course, like any other ethnic cuisine, everyone has their own version of things, and there was a lively discussion of how some of these dishes were different than what "Mom" served. We also debated about tempura batter, specifically, what is considered the "correct" recipe for it. The book gives the traditional mix of flour, water and an egg, while both of my friends prefer club soda for a lighter batter.
This book is great for beginners who want to learn basics.
It has a section on sushi, including a number of different vegetarian suggestions,
along with good instructions on the making of sushi rice, too. The pictures
help you see what the finished dishes look like and how to serve or "plate"
various things. If you're looking for some new ideas for meatless meals,
interesting side dishes, or just wandering into the world of Japanese cooking,
this book is very helpful.
Click
here to order your copy of this cookbook.
