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Reviewed by Ruth Heiges
TASTE OF ISRAEL
A Mediterranean Feast
by Avi Ganor and Ron Malberg
with Zachi Bukshester and Kenneth R. Windsor
Israeli edition: Steimatzky Ltd, 1990
ISBN 1 85375 041 7
(240 pages; large format; price: about US $35-$40)
I first started buying this book in 1990, as a gift for others. When someone gave me gift certificates to a bookstore a year or two ago, I decided it was time I had a copy for myself.
I love this book, which I keep in my livingroom. In rare combination, it is a beautiful "coffee-table book," filled with gorgeous color plates on high-quality paper and a selection of thoughtful essays on the country, its people and food traditions, along with excellent and reliable recipes.
In recognition of the confluence of food traditions in Israel --
Ashkenazic, Sephardic, Yemenite, Arabic, Balkan, and more -- the authors
present "families" of recipes, side by side. In the chapter of "Traditional
Dishes,"
therefore, they have Ashkenazi cholent, followed by Sephardic cholent,
then Defeena (Moroccan-Jewish cholent). An essay on "street food" is followed
by a selection of recipes: falafel, Jerusalem mixed grill, cheese or spinach
borekas, green omelet, fried kibbeh, and Tunisian sandwich.
Along with presenting the spectrum of ethnic foods, the book also offer some of the recipes being created by young Israeli chefs, many of whom started creating a body of dishes which could truly be labeled "Israeli" during the international _nouvelle cuisine_ period of the 80s by concentrating on foods produced within the country.
Here is one such dish:
Avocado with Tahini Yogurt
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1 cup/225 ml plain yougurt
1/3 cup/80 ml tahini paste
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
pinch ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
pinch cayenne pepper
3 ripe avocados
1/2 cup/100 g flaked almonds, toasted
Beat the yogurt into the tahini, then add the spices, herbs, and seasonings. Blend well, cover and refrigerate.
Peel the avocados a few minutes before serving, halving them lengthwise and removing the pits/stones.
Thinly slice each half lengthwise and fan out the slices on individual plates. Spoon the yogurt dressing over them and sprinkle with toasted almonds.
Serves 6.
NOTE: When preparing avocados, squeeze a little lemon juice into
a bowl of water and dip the avocados into it as you peel or slice them.
This will prevent the flesh turning an unappetizing grey-black.
------
Simple though this recipe may be, I enjoy the attempt made to combine the "languages" of the foods one finds in Israel.
Many food critics have pointed to the Israeli breakfast buffet as the country's contribution to world cuisine. The authors note: "In fact Israeli cuisine went nouvelle before it had a chance to define itself. Local experts claim, for example, that Israel's main contribution to world cuisine is not breakfast but barbecued _foie gras_. We were the first to expose this expensive and rare delicacy to the rigors of open fire. Since _foie gras_ is largely fat, its preparation is classically conservative and careful. If not watched like a hawk, it can easily melt away. Usually is is made into pate' or cooked whole and served warm or cold. Grilling goose liver on a spit is therefore either a demonstration of courage or an act of defiance against the order of the old world. And what could be more outrageously Israeli than serving _foi gras in _pita_ bread?"
The main author, Rob Malber, is highly knowledgeable in food matters and the Israeli cooking scene. Together with the exceptional photography by Avi Ganor, the book is a feast for the senses.
Ruth Heiges (Tel Aviv)
Even though this book is out of print, you can still order
TASTE OF ISRAEL from Amazon.com.
